G2: DIY: Engine Swaps: C32 Removal

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Contents

Necessary Tools

  • 3/8" drive impact wrench with suitable air compressor
  • Engine hoist with leveler that has small chain hooks to fit the C-series engines' lift points
  • 36mm socket for axle nut
  • Metric sockets 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
    • Maybe a 21 and 24 - confirm please?
  • Breaker bar
  • Pliers
    • Needle nose? Simple pliers?
  • Flashlights
  • Metric wrenches (you NEED a 17mm)
    • Box wrenches, I take it?
  • Pry bar, 3ft long would be best
  • Jack and 4 jackstands
  • Safety glasses

Helpful Tools

  • For cutting exhaust bolts that cannot be removed:
    • SAWZALL with a 24tooth metal blade
    • Rotory tool: Rotozip, Dremel
    • Hacksaw

Supplies

  • Coolant
  • PB blaster or penetrating oil
  • Dot 3 or 4 fluid(if you have 5spd or 6spd)
  • Drain pan
  • Replacement bolts for the joint between the Y-pipe and catalyst
  • Replacement bolts for the joint between the Y-pipe and B-pipe
  • A/C belt (if you plan on simply cutting the old one off)

Instructions

Remark: With the following directions I am purposely having you crawl under the car and back up to various items to help you focus on ONE task at a time and the appropriate tool.

  1. Loosen the lugs on the front tires
    • Just break them free so they aren't as hard to loosen when the car's in the air.
  2. Lift the front of car.
    1. Put jack on the subframe mount behind the front wheels and lift
    2. Put jackstands beneath the support rib on the pinch weld of the car (the reinforced jack points beneath the runner sills?)
    3. Put the jacks up at 2-3 clicks
      • Enough that you have enough room to get under the car and work
    4. Gently lower the car until its weight is supported by the stands
  3. Lift the rear of the car
    1. Put jackstands on the rear support rib on the pinch weld just in front of the rear tires(arrows on your black lower moldings)
    2. Set jackstands height to the first click
  4. Disconnect & remove battery
  5. Remove the metal battery tray
  6. Disconnect throttle cables
  7. Remove air intake
  8. Remove splash shield beneath front bumper
  9. Disconnect electrical connectors for the fans on radiator(underneath)
    G2 C32 Removal Fig1.jpg
  10. Disconnect the power steering fluid lines to the VSS
    • located in the front of the differential
  11. Disconnect the power steering fluid lines to the power steering pump
  12. Disconnect electrical power and ground wires to the fuse box
  13. Remove the two 10mm bolts in the fuse box and move the box up onto the strut tower, out of the way
    • Clearance will be helpful when putting the motor back in
  14. Disconnect the main engine harness
    • For cars with automatic transmissions, there is a connector near the brake master cylinder as well
  15. Undo the fuel line at the fuel filter and the return line
    • Use caution: can be hard to loosen
  16. Place large catch pan beneath radiator petcock at the bottom of the driver's side of your radiator
  17. Remove radiator cap
  18. Open radiator petcock to empty radiator into drain pan
    G2 C32 Removal Fig2.jpg
  19. Remove front tires
  20. Undo axle(spindle nut) nuts with impact
  21. Undo the 10mm bolts that hold the ABS cables and the brake lines to the front spindle
  22. Undo the two 17mm nuts that hold the upper control arms in with a 17mm wrench
    • Top side, in the engine compartment
    • Hard to get to them but it can be done
    • Once nuts are off slight tap of hammer on each stud should pop the arms out from the body
  23. Hand turn the spindle (driver side you turn it to the left, passenger side to the right), press downward and cock it slightly to pop the axle out from the hub.
  24. Pull axle out from the differential and intermediate shaft.
    • There is a retainer ring holding the axle in the diff: You may need to crawl underneath and use wedge the pry bar to pry and pop the axle out.
    • For reassembly: put a little bit of lube around it (the retainer ring? the axle? the space in the diff?) to slide the axle on (in?) better.
    • No need to undo the tierods or balljoints.
  25. Remove the strut bar
  26. Disconnect the sensor connectors that run to the emissions box on the fire wall
    • Emissions box is the black cover on passenger side
  27. Remove and mark vacuum lines from the intake manifold, VIS, and EGR
    G2 C32 Removal Fig3.jpg
  28. Remove the 10mm bolts that hold emissions box in place and flop it up near the windshield wipers
  29. Crawl back under the car and remove the two 14mm(12?)(bolts? nuts? confirm size + object please.) that hold the two mid mounts to the subframe
  30. While there, disconnect the transmission cooler lines that hook to the subframe there and go to the driverside frame.
    • They are held on by two basic clamps.
    • Plug the lines and the metal tudes on the transmission
      • Spare bolts, golf tees, plastic bags held in place with rubber bands all work for this purpose.
    G2 C32 Removal Fig5.jpg G2 C32 Removal Fig6.jpg
  31. Remove Catalytic Converter
    • If you live in an area with a wet climate, you may find that one or more of the bolts are fused together with rust. If so you will need to cut them off using the Sawzall; it may be helpful to lift the car a little further for this.
    1. Dawn safety glasses
    2. Remove upper cat bracket bolt
    3. Remove the forward bolts (these bolts have springs and secure the Cat to the Y-Pipe)
    4. Remove rearward bolts (these bolts secure the cat to the B-pipe)
    5. Drop the cat and set it out of the way
  32. Remove to the 10mm bolts that that hold the heat shield to the underside of the car
  33. Remove heat shield and set it out of the way
  34. You now can get to the rear trans mount and shift linkage to disconnect.
    G2 C32 Removal Fig7.jpg
  35. Go to the front of car and remove what you need to* on the front two mounts
    • The motor nuts/bolts depending on mount design
    • "What you need to" is too obscure for someone you're teaching to pull an engine: clarification would be good.
  36. Disconnect the engine side of the two primary hoses
  37. Disconnect the HEATER hoses.
    • Look carefully on which clamps you really need to undo
  38. Disconnect and plug the transmission lines on the bottom of the radiator.
  39. Verify all wiring has been disconnected from the radiator + fan shrouds. Disconnect any remaining harnesses.
  40. Remove the upper radiator mounts
  41. Carefully lift the radiator up and out of the engine compartment.
  42. Crawl back under and loosen the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor on and gently move it so it is handing free
    • This avoids the need to drain the refrigerant
  43. Remove or just cut the AC belt
    G2 C32 Removal Fig4.jpg
    • Leave the power steering and alternator belts on the engine when removing an engine with the Y-pipe attached.


PERFORMANCE FAQ etc:

Most people when doing the swap want to know either the easiest and more sensible way to swap the 3.5 in without cutting wires and so forth. Some want the added performance of the type 2 intake manifold and camshafts. Here is my list of recommendations to make either scenario easier for you.

ABSOLUTE MUSTs for BEGINNERS:
Swap over legend injectors, coil packs, spark plugs, legend MAIN engine harness.

DONT break your KNOCK sensors when pulling the intake manifold or heads.

Stock 3.5:

  1. I believe that no stock 3.5 straight from the yard should be swapped right in without doing the timing belt and waterpump. Since you are doing that hopefully; and you need to swap over the P.S. Pump and alternator(if your engine comes without which they normally do) i recommend swapping over the legend valve covers(to use the oil temp sensor) and taking apart the intake manifold to clean it, and to swap over the legend coolant crossover pipe that houses the coolant temp sensors so then you dont cut wires.
  2. I recommend keeping the 3.5 throttle body neck since it puts the fast idle valve up front and makes it more accessible and user friendly, and you can choose to use any throttlebody you want but you will have to drill out rivet head screws that hold the TPS on and switch out if the sensor hits the wiring harness
  3. If you dont want to cut and splice wires you will need to remove the driverside cam gear while doing timing belt and swap over the cam/crank sensor(since connectors are different)
  4. Runs best on a type 1 ecu if using the type 1 pressure regulator/rails
  5. If you use the 3.5 valve covers and tap the oil temp hole then you wont be able to bolt the vacuum hardlines in place, so you have to get creative.

3.5 hybrid

  1. Simplest and easiest is to directly swap over the type 2 intake manifold. Retain the 3.5 heads and have a basic valve job done and head inspection and have them put in type 2 intake valves. Swap in the type 2 camshafts. There is still disputes today about the valve springs. If you dont rev to 7k every night you can keep the RL springs. I have them in and they do fine.
  2. If you originally had a type 1 engine , its now a good boat anchor unless you want to use the valve covers off of it. Everything else you really dont need since 3.5 design is superior in every way, on the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds.
  3. 3.5 fuel rail pressure is higher than a type 2 so for added performance on people using cam regrinds etc it is good to use them. You will need to compensate in the chip designed for your car since if you are using a type 2 ecu, it will still run rich.
  4. This hybrid runs best using a type 2 ECU with the type 2 fuel rails/regulator

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